Posts Tagged ‘kathmandu’

Posted on January 15, 2010

Best book store in Kathmandu

You will see Mandala Books on Kantipath Road and inevitably stumble upon Pilgrims and but United Books is underdog book store in KTM.

The owner of the shop was extremely friendly and really went out of his way to try to find a particular book that I was looking for. Like most stores, this one also buys and sells used books and offers competitive prices.

Yet, what makes this stand out is character…. any guy who posts up a smiling photo of themselves in front of their shop gets my thumbs up.

Posted on December 11, 2009

Fair Trade Shops in Kathmandu & Patan

There are many shops in Kathmandu and in Patan that are fair trade, locally made, and supportive of small communities and women’s groups. Here are some of the most popular stores and our favourite ones both big and small.

Mahaguthi – Craft with a Conscience – in Lazimpath (small store), Kupondole, Patan (main store)
One of our favourite stores to visit with a wide range of heritage and cultural products.

Above: Photos from the Lazimpath store. Below: Photos from the Kupondole (Patan) store.

Dhukuti – Kupondole, Patan
Dhukuti is also a member of ACP – the Association for Craft Producers. Providing training, employment, access to health care and other benefits to over 1200 women, ACP employs and empowers women from severely disadvantaged backgrounds.

Photos: second floor of Dhukuti. Ooops, I only saw the “Please do not take any photos” after I took these photos.

This multi-level store pretty much has everything to decorate your home and to remind you of Nepal.

Third World Crafts – Lazimpath
They also provide international shipping.

Folk Nepal – Lazimpath
Metal & Wooden Crafts, Decorations, Fashionable clothing and more in this 2-level, spacious store.

Kumbeshwar Technical School – Patan
provides vocational training opportunities with allowance to women and young men in hand knitting, carpet weaving and furniture making. In order to fund and sustain these activities the school also operates income generating programme producing high quality knitwear, carpets and furniture.

See quiz contest video below from their local programmes…

I also hear they provide great deals on carpets!

Jawalakhel Handicraft Centre (The Tibetan Refugee Camp) – Jawalakhel, Patan
one of the Nepal’s largest manufacture  of carpets…huge collections of beautiful carpets by Contemporary, Traditional and Persian types of designs.

Photos above: outside the centre, it was a little hard to find at first.
Below: inside the work area and the carpet showroom.

An amazing, friendly place with lots of selection and you can also walk through the carpet making facilities. However, it is a little on the pricey side.

Women’s Skill Development – Pokhara
“Established in 1975, the WSDP has been committed to providing the women of Nepal with the finest vocational skills training possible.”

You can find their products in almost every fair trade shop in Nepal. The father in-law got an excellent side bag.

Fibre Weave Nepal – Kupondole, Patan
This is a new store that we stumbled upon and coincidentally stumbled upon a workshop where the owners were teaching local Nepali women how to weave. Interesting and beautiful hand-made woven products.

Related Organizations in Nepal

Fair Trade Group Nepal – Fair Trade Group Nepal (FTG Nepal) is a consortium of fair trading organisations working with the aim to uplift socio-economic status of underprivileged and marginalised producers of Nepal. It was informally established in 1993, was formally registered as an NGO in 1996 and in 1997 the FTG Nepal secretariat was established.

Association of Craft Producers - a non-profit group that provides design, marketing, training and technical services to low-income artisans of all ethnic backgrounds – 90% of whom are women.

Ten Thousand Villages

World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO)

Posted on December 2, 2009

Getting Around the Kathmandu Valley

Aside from the traffic, pollution, and excessive honking, getting around Kathmandu isn’t as bad or hard as one might think – you just have to be patient and selective about your transportation choices.

Tuk-tuks – they can be crampy, the ride can be bumpy, but they are sure fun and eco-friendly especially if you have access to electric tuk-tuks. The number 5 tuk-tuk is the one we use the most to get from Lazimpath to our frequently visited places such a Thamel, Jamal, Ratna Park Bus Park, and Sundhara. The number 2, which you can catch from Jamal can take you to Naxal and the Baneswors (old and new). Although not as fast as the next type of transportation, Tuks-tuks are pretty frequent as well and usually come down the road every few to 5 minutes.

Mini/micro buses – to be honest, never really used them as much since they are mostly overcrowded. They are usually unmarked and so you have to ask or listen to the bus boys call out where they are going. Most of the time, as almost all Nepali’s do, is ask each micro-bus where they are going and if they pass by the place where you want to go. These buses are the fastest and most comfortable (if you can get a seat) way to get around.

Local buses – the big busses, sometimes school bus-looking is my preferred way of getting around town. The busses are clearly marked and you usually can get a comfortable seat or manageable standing room. Bus drivers for some reason tend to drive amazingly fast so depending on the driver, be prepared for a potential roller coaster-type ride.

If you are not in a hurry, the legendary number 26 bus can take us from our place in Lazimpath all the way and pretty much anywhere where we normally go, to Kupondole (where we get off to walk to work) and also the end of the line is at the popular, historic Patan Durbar Square. For any tourist that is staying around the Thamel/Lazimpath area, catch the 26 bus in Lainchaur and for a 10 ruppee ride one-way, you can get a decent ride around the city and back.

Transit map of Patan & Kathmandu

Believe it or not, there is a transit map that lists the major routes of the local buses and thuk-thuks.

I’m not exactly sure who made the map or how old it is (I found it when we arrived in 2008), but it is still up-to-date and accurate.

To get to Baktapur, Banepa, Dhulikhel (in that order), you can easily catch the bus from the Ratna Park bus park. Just listen for the bus boys yell “Banepa, Banepa, Banepa” and it is that bus that will take you along the …. highway. If you are at the bus park/station, don’t be shy and ask the bus boys if they are going where you want to go. They will always point you to the right bus and most of the time if they are not busy, remind you when to get off.

Taxis - ahhh, Taxis. There are times where I don’t mind haggling with them but there are days where I dread it. To avoid bargaining, just ask (or demand) them to run the meter (“meter chalaune”) and depending on the driver, he usually won’t mind. Getting from Patan to lets say Thamel, with the usual traffic should cost no more than 200 rupees (it’s about 200 to get to Lazimpath), less if traffic or your driver is creative with the roads he takes. The price is likewise when you go from the west to the east side of the city. Note: During Petrol strikes or shortages, add Rs. 100 extra.

During the night time however, you are essentially at the mercy of the taxis because buses/tuk-tuks stop running and night time rates apply (around Rs. 20 per KM). Most of the time taxis do not want to run the meter at all. A ride that usually costs 100 rupees by meter will cost you almost double. The guy in the photo above is Saanoi, he’s cool.

Note: A great taxi ride to the Kopan Monastery is worth it, although it is nice easy hike up the hill.

Bring small bills, because drivers usually can’t break 1000 rupee note.

Rental and Hiring a car/driver

Hmmm, if you are a brave enough, renting a motorbike or scooter is another option as well. Lots of places to rent them. You can also hire your own personal car and driver for the whole day for about Rs. 1600 to 2000.

Photos above (L-R): a typical 26 bus riders, traffic near Jamal, a usual sight of an over loaded bus.

I only rode a rikshaw once from the main road in Biratnagar to the airport. It was a pleasant ride and I got to know the driver pretty well (a chatty fellow if I recall).

Posted on October 10, 2009

Namaste!

Written by Monika Terfloth.

This is part 1 of 10 of the “Mother in-law” series IN Nepal and India.

Holy Bagmati where do I start?

Perhaps with the tail of the category 8 Typhoon Koppu that pushed us into Hong Kong two days ago? A rocky but memorable introduction to Southeast Asia. Since we had a 12 hour lay-over, rather than spend it in the airport we ventured into old Hong Kong, an area known as Kwoloon. It was mid-morning when we arrived there, the streets were wet and deserted. Debris was everywhere… garbage , broken glass, electrical wire, uprooted plants. We discover by asking a gentleman, that the typhoon had now passed. “Thank-you very much”. It is comforting to know this because we fly out later today. We thread our way through narrow alleys, poking our heads into tiny shops and wondering at the exotic fruits, fishes , raw jade, finally stopping for a steaming bowl of wonton soup (and a side dish of something unidentifiable and gelatinous).

The reunion with Tlell and Rex was fabulous! They greeted us at the airport in Kathmandu with traditional garlands (malla) of marigolds and silk scarves (khatta) . They have a small and simple, fourth floor flat from which we can seen the surrounding flat rooftops each with its own special array of potted plants. The old fellow across the way has his morning cigarette on the rooftop while a younger woman sorts through the day’s rice to pick out the stones and the weevils before cooking it. (We discover that we have to do that too).

Yesterday was our first full day in Kathmandu and it is a truly colourful and sensual place. It is hot and dusty and noisy, and the sights and smells change with every step. One moment the smell of soapy laundry water then of curry spices. Then the sweet scent of night blooming jasmine and shortly of garbage swept to the gutter. “Look!” There’s a black bull in the middle of rush hour traffic and we too have to cross the street, threading our way between cars, busses, motorcycles and everyone honking. It is truly chaotic but somehow it works! As I am staring in amazement at it all, I step on a loose brick and something squooshes out from underneath it and plops squarely on top of my sandal soaking my foot. (Oh what a great pleasure to wash my feet at the end of the day!). In the midst of all of this are the beautiful, brown people with wonderful smiles… one carrying a couch and two chairs on his back, followed closely by another pushing a load of bananas on his bicycle, yet another with the entire family on his scooter, and then a woman in a beautiful red sari smiling quietly from the doorway of her shop. (Women are very much in the forefront of things a definite contrast to the apparent absence of women in Turkey). They tend shops, go out alone and dress beautifully all the while mothering gorgeous, black-haired children with huge brown eyes.

Today we took a long walk through the dusty streets and alleys to Pashupatinath. It is a sacred site on the banks of the Bagmati River where the Hindu people cremate their dead. Many ceremonies take place each day and today we had the honour of witnessing an entire ceremony from the moment that the woman’s body was brought to the riverside, as her sons ritually and with utmost care removed the cloths from beneath the shroud, bathed her feet and her face, wrapped her in fresh linen and saffron coloured cloths and draped her in garlands of marigolds. They laid her on a bamboo cot and placed ghee (butterfat) into her mouth. They then lifted her onto the funeral pyre made of wood and straw. The eldest son sets alight the ghee in her mouth, covers her with more straw and the pyre begins to burn. Such a simple and intimate ceremony and truly a memorable day.

Tomorrow Randy and I are going to strike out on our own to Swayambhunath, a Bhuddist temple on the northwest side of Kathmandu. We will attempt to use the local busses or tuk-tuks and on Friday we will leave for Pokarha, the town from where we will begin our trek. I will probably not be able to send another note until after we return to Kathmandu about a week later. But we are having a wonderful time and we hope this note finds you all well.

Posted on September 9, 2009

Dogmandu

I hearby rename the city of Kathmandu, Nepal to Dogmandu. The dogs rule the city as they are everywhere (especially at night). However, some of the dogs that I have seen and their conditions (both their physical and living) are horrifically unbelievable.

I’m definitely supporting my local SPCA when I get home.